Esther Fitzgerald
Rare Textiles

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London NW3 6UP   
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Islamic Textiles
Click image to enlarge textiles
     
     
 
Kashmir shawl
Tapestry woven in Kashmir, India , circa 1840 .
It's been ages since I found a lovely Kashmir shawl.
I call this type firework shawls.
The colours are vibrant but explode once they meet the white pashmina ground.
Measurements: 56 ins x 120 ins.
Very good condition. Tiny old moth holes in cream field but otherwise excellent.
 
Indian
 
     
     
 
Kashmir shawl (detail)
Tapestry woven in Kashmir , India , circa 1840 .
It's been ages since I found a lovely Kashmir shawl.
I call this type firework shawls.
The colours are vibrant but explode once they meet the white pashmina ground.
Measurements: 56 ins x 120 ins.
Very good condition. Tiny old moth holes in cream field but otherwise excellent.
 
Indian
 
     
     
 
Shahrisyabz silk embroidered on cotton Suzani,
early 19th century, possibly earlier.
Exquisite colours with formal similarities to Nurata embroideries
Formerly in the collection of the Embroiderers Guild.
Very similar piece published in Vok Collection 1994. page 19.
Measurements: 225 cm's x 180 cm's or 7ft 3 in x 6 ft
     
     
     
 
Shahrisyabz silk embroidered on cotton Suzani, DETAIL,
early 19th century, possibly earlier.
Exquisite colours with formal similarities to Nurata embroideries
Formerly in the collection of the Embroiderers Guild.
Very similar piece published in Vok Collection 1994. page 19.
Measurements: 225 cm's x 180 cm's or 7ft 3 in x 6 ft
     
     
     
 
A embroidered susani from Bukhara district of Uzbekistan
Circa 1880's
Measurements :210 cm's x 138 cm's
 
Uzbekistan
 
     
     
 
Dowery embroidery .
Suzani Bukhara or Nurata ,
Uzbekistan Silk embroidery on cotton
Circa 1840
Measurement :87 x 62 inches or 221cm's x 158 cm's
 
Uzbekistan
 
     
     
 
Very rare and fine pashmina shawl ( woven in Kashmir) Signature has the name of the weaver, for whom it was commissioned and that it is of the best quality. It is dated 1810.

This is as far as I am aware the oldest signature known on a shawl.
Measurements:1 metre 70 cm's by 3metres 40 cm's
 
Kashmir
 
     
     
 
A rare embroidered summer carpet
Silk on cotton twill India, 1680 - 1720
Measurements: 2.40 metre's by 1.80 metre's
 
India
 
     
     
 
 
     
     
 
A rare embroidered summer carpet
Silk on cotton twill India, 1680 - 1720
Measurements: 2.40 metre's by 1.80 metre's (DETAIL)
 
India
 
     
     
 
Three silk tapestry woven Syrian purses
mid to late 19 th century (front)
 
Syria
 
     
     
 
Three silk tapestry woven Syrian purses
mid to late 19 th century (back)
 
Syria
 
     
     
 
A cotton Applique panel Egyptian , 1890's or earlier
Measurement: 6ft square or 1metre 84 cm's
 
Egypt
 
     
     
 
Very rare silk and metal thread embroidered Turkish towel Depicting Birds with corn in their mouth, which is a symbol of fertility.
The towel is edged in an Italian flame stitch.
Turkey 18th century
Measurements:16inches by 30 inches or 41cm's x77cm's
 
Turkey
 
     
     
 
A rare dowry susani with a unusual number of dyes
including murex from the Nurata district of Uzbekistan
Date 1840-1860
Measurements: 185cm's x 220cm's
 
Uzbekistan
 
     
     
 
A large Bokara embroidered dowry susani Silk on linen
Circa 1870 -1880.
Designed with the centre tree design split, one half gold the other black. This could be e reference to the joining together of family's in marriage.
The border design has no repeat and has 26 differing flower designs.
Measurements: 60inches by 84inches or 2000 cm's x 1550cm's
     
     
     
     
 
A very large and dramatic cotton tent makers hanging.
With geometric and Islamic calligraphic designs.
Egyptian, 1920
Measurement: 3 metres square
 
Egyptian
 
     
     
     
 
Suzani / Dowry Embroidery Nurata/ Shakhrisyabz
Silk on cotton with bokhara couching, and tambour stitches. Date - 1840s.

Although more typical of a style of embroidery from Nurata, the quality of the silk and dyes, including murex,( see glossary) and the superb borders could indicate that this is from Shakhrisyabz.

A similar piece with Shakhrisyabz provenance is shown within “Vok Collection: Suzani.” Vok, Ignazio, Munich, 1994, pp. 19/20.

Measurement: 90cm x 241 cm.
Provenance - The Sir Emery Walker Collection.
 
     
 
 
 
 
 
Calligraphic ritual batik
Sumatra, Indonesia
Early part 20th century
Worn during rights of passage as talisman.
Measurements: 103cms x 228 cms
 
Indonesian
 
     
     
 
 
 
Ikat Panel (mounted)
Cotton warp silk weft
Uzbekistan Circa 1880.
Measurements: 25 in x 12 in - 64cms x 30cms
 
Uzbekistan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ikat Panel Cotton warp silk weft
Uzbekistan .circa 1880s
Lined in Russian Cotton Chintz
Measurements: 40 in x 70 in - 102cms x178cms
 
Uzbekistan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ikat Panel (DETAIL)
Cotton warp silk weft Uzbekistan
circa 1880s Lined in Russian Cotton Chintz
Measurements: 40 in x 70 in - 102cms x178cms
 
Indonesian
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Bukhara Susani Silk embroidery on cotton dowry cover
from the Bukhara district of Uzbekistan.
Circa 1870.
A unique and very stylish design
Measurements: 87inches x 60 inches - 221cms x 153cms.
 
Uzbekistan
 
 
 
 
 

Festival Banner Calagraphic kalamcari
(block printed and painted on cotton)
From Persia. 1880.
The caligraphy is a poem with refrain on the life against tyranny and injustice of the martyr Imran Husayn Ibn Ali,
(628.Ad -680.Ad) who was killed at the battle of Karbala.
October 10th. 680 Ad
Measurements: 89cms x 168cms - 35inches x 65inches

 
Persia
 
 
 
 
 
Kashmir shawl fragment. (the cuff from a coat)
Tapestry woven in pashmina.
Made in the first quarter of the 18th century.
A larger fragment from same garment published in Trade Temple and Court , compiled by Barns, Crill and Cohen, published by India Book House. 2002 - ISBN 81-7508-345-9, page 124
Measurements: 12 ins x 6ins
 
Kashmir
 
 
 
 
Silk embroidered on cotton with metal thread
using ten different colours.
Possibly from Skyros but with Turkish influence c. 1800 Dimensions: 34" x 24"
 
Turkish
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dowery Susani
Nurata District Uzbekistan Mid 19th century
Measurement: 99ins x 62 ins
 
Uzbekistan
 
 
 
 
 
 
Yemani Wedding Dress
Early 20th cent
Warp faced cotton with silk couching and woven metal thread
 
Yeman
 
 
 
 
 
 
Yemani Wedding Dress
Early 20th cent
Warp faced cotton with silk couching and woven metal thread
 
Yeman
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dowry Textile Silk embroidered on cotton susani.
From Nurata, Uzbekistan. Early 19th century
Measurements: 87ins x 61ins
 
Uzbekistan
 
 
 
 
 
 
Quilted Palampore Mordant- Dyed
and painted Coromandel Coast
India Late 18th century
Measurements: 9ft x 6ft 2ins
 
India
 
 
 
 
 
 
Embroidered cover.
Silk and guilt thread embroidery on silk.
Measurements: 32 in x 45 in - 82 cms x 114 cms
 
Persian